West Highland Way & Ben Nevis

What a way to see Scotland. 154.5km (96miles) walking from Milngavie (pronounced mil-guy) on the outskirts of Glasgow to Fort William. This popular long-distance route offers walkers of all abilities the opportunity to take in the different landscapes Scotland has to offer.

Taking the easy option and engaging a company to pre-organise our accommodation along with the pick up and delivery of our main bags each day made enjoying everything the WHW has to offer much easier; especially knowing that a hot shower and warm room awaited us at the end of each day, along with a pint or many.

Having packed our bags and set off on a peak hour train from Edinburgh (highly enjoyable with luggage), we arrived at Milngavie and walked the short distance to the WHW starting point. After a quick stock up at the local Tesco for the day's lunch we dropped our main bags with the van and set off, guided by the prominent WHW markers. With a relatively easy section of track for day 1, we made it to Drymen early. Early enough for our B&B host to explain that walkers don't usually arrive until 4pm, making us about 3 hours early! This being the case, we did as you do in a small town, and headed to the pub satisfied at the end of our first 20 kms.

Atop Conic Hill, looking over Loch Lomond

After smashing down a huge, full Scottish breakfast, we departed for Day 2 on a slightly damp and humid morning. Up a hill and through a pine plantation, where I in particular, experienced midges for the first time! I did not imagine that something so small could be so irritating. Surviving this, the view from the top of Conic Hill was superb, with wide views across the 'fat' section of Loch  Lomond and the small islands that lie within this famous expanse of water.

After a steep descent, we arrived at the small town of Balmaha where a pleasant rest stop happily greets walkers, and I learnt that a beer at  lunch with a further 8 mile to go, is not a good idea! The rest of the day's walk was a bit of a task with plenty of 'up and over' sections, and found us out, after we thought it would be an easy, picturesque walk along the banks of Loch Lomond; maps always appear rather flat and easy! I'm sure the ascent of Mt Everest appears simple enough on paper. With that said, the sight of the Rowardenan Hotel at the end of the road on the east bank was very much a welcome sight. After a long shower, a change of clothes and some comfy shoes, we headed down into the main bar for what was to become the obligatory end of day pint(s). This flowed into dinner, and a countdown in the bar of the 20 best Queen songs of all time, how fitting.

Our third day was wet! As we marched out of Rowardenan we quickly realised that this was going to be a rainy Scottish day, one where the clouds sit overhead with back up just in case it looks like easing.

Following the bonnie bonnie banks of Loch Lomond

After a stop at Inversnaid and a change into something dry, along with a quick lunch we headed further towards to the top of Loch Lomond, and past Inverarnan to our stop for the night at Beinglas Farm. With both cabin accommodation and camping, if you prefer (we didn't), and the small bar/restaurant producing one of the best curries we have had since arriving in Scotland, we were content to be inside well fed, and dry.

The fourth leg of our trip saw us alongside the 'nutters' that take part in the non-stop race along the WHW. Starting at 1am from Milngavie, participants run, walk and crawl their way to Fort William having to arrive before the cut off time of 12noon on the Sunday (35hours). The record stands at 15hrs 44min 50sec!! More info on the race can be found at WHW Race.

the Bridge of Orchy Hotel

Passing Crianlarich, and arriving in Tyndrum we were welcomed at our B&B with a pot of tea and home-made scones, excellent after another day of rain, wet boots, and sweat. From Tyndrum we had our shortest day only travelling as far as Bridge of Orchy, which in hindsight was probably too short for a whole day. Having said that, the Bridge of Orchy Hotel, our roof for the night provided excellent accommodation and a decent meal.

Setting off from Bridge of Orchy with refreshed legs, we headed past the Inveroran Hotel (about 4 miles), and across Rannoch Moor. Crossing the moor is like walking across a sponge, there are pools of water inside the pools of water! As the UK's largest uninhabited wilderness (approx 50 square miles), Ranoch More provides a spectacular, and desolate backdrop to our arrival at Kingshouse, near Glencoe.

Near the base of Meall a' Bhuiridh (1,108m) overlooking Rannoch Moor

Heading towards Kingshouse

From Kingshouse, the scenery becomes more dramatic, and what you'd expect from the WHW. After climbing to the top of the Devil's Staircase walkers are afforded wonderful views of Glencoe, and towards Kingshouse.

Looking back down the Devil's Staircase past Kingshouse 

After stopping for lunch at about 480m above sea level, we headed down into the town of Kinlochleven. With a steep descent past the hydro that powers the Aluminium smelt we finally arrived, in the rain again!    After stopping at the Ice Factor which houses the world's largest indoor ice wall for climbing (we just enjoyed a coffee) we headed  to Tigh na Cheo B&B. After a shower and change of clothes it was off to find a decent pub, this proved to be the one with the pink fluorescent lighting above the bar?? The food though was good, with the beff chilli hitting the spot. 

After a relatively early night, we packed up our gear for the last time before hitting the track for Fort William! The last stretch offers some of the most diverse scenery on the trip before entering the shadow of Ben Nevis just outside of Fort William. With the end in sight we motored towards the finish, a sign post marking the  end of the WHW, which has recently been shifted from the start of the main road into Fort William, to the end of the pedestrian street, ensuring walkers take themselves past each retail outlet Fort William has to offer. Unlike the other days, rather than head straight to our accommodation for a shower, we found the nearest establishment for a satisfying pint, content with the fact that we had walked from Glasgow (nearly) to Fort William along the WHW.

BEN NEVIS 1,343m 

As if we weren't going to take ourselves up the highest mountain in the UK after finishing a long-distance walk to the town at its feet! 

As the UK's largest mountain, Ben Nevis towers over Fort William at 1,343 metres above sea level. Although this is small compared to many other mountains around the world, getting up and down the Ben in a day should not be approached in a lackadaisical manner. Many a hapless adventurer has found themselves stuck on the mountain, and many have even paid the ultimate price for attempting to stand on top of the UK. Having said that, with the proper precautions the ascent and descent is largely risk free, and busy! With a a reccomended allowance of 8 hours for a return trip, we set off at the back of 9 and made our way up, and up, and bit more up until we thought we were up, and then realised there was a bit more up, with a bit of over and then finally up where we found the the top, albeit covered in cloud.  

The view only increases the higher you go, but it is worth taking as many shots as possible, as the cloud rolls in as fast as it rolls out and can leave you with not much visibility. 

Nearing the top

After spending the best part of 4 hours sweating our way upwards, we were back into warm gear for lunch on top of the United Kingdom. 

Permanent ice near the summit 

The highest land in the United Kingdom 

After reaching the top, it was back down again. Sounds easy, but actually more painful than going up! Anyhow the Ben Nevis Inn at the bottom was a welcome sight, as was the taxi that took us back to our accommodation. 

The Ben Nevis Inn

If you are considering the West Highland Way, or other long distance walking trips visit Make Tracks for any assistance booking accommodation, transfers or other requirements, ask for Dougie and let them take care of your itinerary. 

The following accommodation was booked and organised through Make Tracks. 

The Hawthorns B&B, Drymen

The Rowardennan Hotel, Rowardennan

Beinglas Farm Campsite, Beinglas Farm (Inverarnan)

Tigh-na-Fraoch B&B, Tyndrum (great dog, Midge)

Bridge of Orchy Hotel, Bridge of Orchy

Ghlas Druim B&B, Glencoe (trasnfer from Kingshouse)

Tigh na Cheo Guesthouse , Kinlochleven 

Viewfield B&B, Fort William